Long ago, a young Irishman clued me in on an essential truth. To truly grasp the greatness of Guinness Draught, you must travel to the source. In Ireland, the world-famous stout tastes even better. It’s fresher and creamier – “like an angel pissing on your tonsils,” he said. He meant this in the best possible way.
When it closes at year’s end, the fabled Carnegie will join a long list of bygone Jewish delis in NYC — a once ubiquitous part of city culture, now struggling for survival in a highly competitive, highly diverse restaurant scene.
In part two of Thrillist’s year-end look at the best of New York City’s food and drink scene in 2016, I sit down with chef Angie Mar, who makes incredible, eye-catching dishes that run counter to the defining trend of the moment, all while undertaking the monumental task of revitalizing a classic.
As a chef, Jorge Luis Hernandez is familiar with many styles of cuisine, from the Spanish-leaning avant-garde offerings at Minibar in Washington, D.C., where he once worked as executive sous chef, to the Filipino-inspired fare at Qui in Austin, where he currently serves as chef de cuisine. But he never so much as touched Cambodian… Read more »
Jake Freed and his Japanese wife, Hiroko Nakamura, probably aren’t the only entrepreneurs racing to establish the nation’s first Chipotle of Ramen. These days, virtually everyone wants to create the Chipotle of Something. But it’s hard to imagine anyone else taking the same approach. They aren’t chefs or restaurateurs or food-service industrialists of any sort…. Read more »
In the old days, your mother would probably scold you for making such horrible noises at suppertime: Slurping your soup was considered poor table manners in polite American society, an egregious faux pas memorably (and quite audibly) sent up in the 1985 crime-comedy Clue. Nowadays, amid the growing influence of Asian food and Asian customs… Read more »
Who knew that “grandma” could be so in fashion? I’m referring, of course, to the grandma pizza. Or grandma pie, as it appears on the menu at GG’s in New York City’s East Village. If, that is, you even bother to look. “It’s the one thing that people order as soon as they sit down,… Read more »
Since the opening of Blue Smoke in 2002, New York City has made tremendous strides toward shedding its historical reputation as a barbecue backwater — more than 30 brick-and-mortar restaurants (and counting) are currently dishing up one style of barbecue or another across the five boroughs. We’re talking about authentic barbecue, mind you, the kind… Read more »
Let’s be upfront: I’m a Heinz devotee, and I’m not shy about it. When I come across menus that advertise some artisanal house-made ketchup instead, I wonder why the chef doesn’t do something more worthwhile with his time, like build a better french fry. As far as I’m concerned, ketchup was perfected long ago, and… Read more »
In the lead-up to Thursday’s big game, Food Republic spoke with NHL forward (and doughnut mogul) Jeff Halpern and restaurateur (and die-hard Habs fan) Joel Tietolman to get a better sense of how both food scenes match-up, regardless of the outcome on the ice. Read the full article here.
Rear View: Tesla’s Sexy Model S Looks Even Better From the Back
For an electric car, Tesla Model S gets a lot of juice….“It’s wide, long, low, and looks great – especially from the rear,” said Motor Trend Editor-in-Chief Edward Loh, drawing chuckles from assembled gawkers, during a videotaped presentation at Manhattan’s Skylight West Studios, where the stylish plug-in was crowned Motor Trend Car of the Year. (“I’m… Read more »
Some Praise For a ‘Well-Crafted Barb’
Hearty thanks to the Huffington Post for including yours truly in its rollicking roundup, “10 Of The Most Scathing Restaurant Reviews.” I can tell you that chef José Andrés noticed the Denny’s line, too. (Read my full review, “Cooking the Books: Choking Down History at José Andrés’ America Eats Tavern,” at Washington City Paper.)
Reflections On a Big Mac In D.C.’s Franklin Square
It was a day a bit like today—mostly sunny, bright, albeit at least 10 degrees warmer—only a decade ago. I was taking a stroll through D.C.’s Franklin Square. It must have been around lunchtime, or thereabouts. A few scattered park benches were occupied with folks taking their midday meal al fresco. Back then, the park… Read more »
Anatomy of a Sandwich: Fast Gourmet’s $13 Chivito
For gas-station fare, it’s tough to beat the chivito at Fast Gourmet, the fancy sandwich shop at Lowest Best Price Gas on 14th Street NW. The cost of regular unleaded now exceeds $4 per gallon, but the South American-style grinder, which earned City Paper‘s pick for “Best Uruguayan Sandwich” in 2011, is still a flat… Read more »
Blast From The Past: Blowtorched Sushi Is Back at Uni
Back in 2004, Y&H alum Todd Kliman wrote about the scintillating fare at Uni: A Sushi Place, former Sushi-Ko chef James Tan‘s then-new restaurant near Dupont Circle. At the time, Kliman, now the restaurant critic at Washingtonian, seemed particularly taken with Tan’s use of the blowtorch….Ironically, a fire in the building forced Uni to close… Read more »
In opening La Forchetta, the modish new Italian-themed eatery in Wesley Heights, restaurateur Hakan Ilhan boldly declared that the reigning mecca of authentic Neapolitan-style pizza-making in the District had just been surpassed.“2Amys, in my opinion, was No. 1,” Ilhan said, referring to Peter Pastan‘s uber-popular pizzeria in Cleveland Park. “I think ours is the best.” … Read more »
This Is Why D.C. Diners Can’t Have Nice Things 24/7
It’s Monday night, about 11:26 p.m. and my new would-be go-to late-night burger spot, Black & Orange, is all locked up. A guy in the window makes a cutthroat gesture as I try in vain to pry open the door. When I point to the large posted sign reading “Open Till 5 a.m.,” he just… Read more »
Playing Chicken: Should Chick-fil-A’s Politics Ruin Your Appetite?
Gawker hated this. But, what else is new? Herewith, an honest attempt to balance my support for gay rights with my love for pressure-cooked, peanut-oil-soaked chicken, “a guilty pleasure–heavy on the guilt.”
D.C.’s Best New Restaurant: Little Serow
Otherworldly—that’s perhaps the best word to describe the way that Komi chef Johnny Monis has converted this former basement-level Dunkin Donuts into something sublime. You’ll hear other restaurateurs boast about attaining this sort of transcendence through their various design theories. Most fall far short….Little Serow actually achieves this.
Top 10 Food Trends That Must Die in 2012
Herewith, my hit list of the most puzzling, most distasteful and most overdone dining trends that need to be euthanized, for their own good, hopefully within the next 12 months: 10. Skid marks! You know what I’m talking about. Those streaks of dark glop wiped across white plates like the work of some abstract expressionist saucier,… Read more »