Last year, in my capacity as food editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper, I crowned Little Serow as D.C.’s Best New Restaurant, calling it “otherworldly…the most important and definitive D.C. dining destination of the moment.” GQ’s food critic Alan Richman, whose purview obviously extends well beyond the Beltway, just took things a step […]
Category: Young & Hungry
27 April, 2012
shotty
It was a day a bit like today—mostly sunny, bright, albeit at least 10 degrees warmer—only a decade ago. I was taking a stroll through D.C.’s Franklin Square. It must have been around lunchtime, or thereabouts. A few scattered park benches were occupied with folks taking their midday meal al fresco. Back then, the park […]
25 April, 2012
shotty
For gas-station fare, it’s tough to beat the chivito at Fast Gourmet, the fancy sandwich shop at Lowest Best Price Gas on 14th Street NW. The cost of regular unleaded now exceeds $4 per gallon, but the South American-style grinder, which earned City Paper‘s pick for “Best Uruguayan Sandwich” in 2011, is still a flat […]
20 April, 2012
shotty
Back in 2004, Y&H alum Todd Kliman wrote about the scintillating fare at Uni: A Sushi Place, former Sushi-Ko chef James Tan‘s then-new restaurant near Dupont Circle. At the time, Kliman, now the restaurant critic at Washingtonian, seemed particularly taken with Tan’s use of the blowtorch….Ironically, a fire in the building forced Uni to close […]
19 April, 2012
shotty
In opening La Forchetta, the modish new Italian-themed eatery in Wesley Heights, restaurateur Hakan Ilhan boldly declared that the reigning mecca of authentic Neapolitan-style pizza-making in the District had just been surpassed.“2Amys, in my opinion, was No. 1,” Ilhan said, referring to Peter Pastan‘s uber-popular pizzeria in Cleveland Park. “I think ours is the best.” […]
18 April, 2012
shotty
It’s Monday night, about 11:26 p.m. and my new would-be go-to late-night burger spot, Black & Orange, is all locked up. A guy in the window makes a cutthroat gesture as I try in vain to pry open the door. When I point to the large posted sign reading “Open Till 5 a.m.,” he just […]
11 April, 2012
shotty
Gawker hated this. But, what else is new? Herewith, an honest attempt to balance my support for gay rights with my love for pressure-cooked, peanut-oil-soaked chicken, “a guilty pleasure–heavy on the guilt.”
1 March, 2012
shotty
Otherworldly—that’s perhaps the best word to describe the way that Komi chef Johnny Monis has converted this former basement-level Dunkin Donuts into something sublime. You’ll hear other restaurateurs boast about attaining this sort of transcendence through their various design theories. Most fall far short….Little Serow actually achieves this.
28 December, 2011
shotty
Herewith, my hit list of the most puzzling, most distasteful and most overdone dining trends that need to be euthanized, for their own good, hopefully within the next 12 months: 10. Skid marks! You know what I’m talking about. Those streaks of dark glop wiped across white plates like the work of some abstract expressionist saucier, […]
6 June, 2011
shotty
“Oh no!” my dining companion yelps. “I think I just ate one of those ligament thingees, thinking it was slaw.” By the contorted look on his face, you’d think he’d just swallowed a handful of agitated hornets. A minute later, having safely swallowed the distasteful cartilage, he offers a less dramatic review: “Tastes like wax.” […]